THE IMPORTANCE OF SALTPANS IN MARSA EL-FORN, GOZO

The Grandma in the saltpans, Marsa el-Forn

After contemplating the equinox sunrise in Ġgantija, today is turn to visit Marsa el-Forn.

The Grandma loves saltpans. Mediterranean coast is full of these wonderful places where you can find salt in enormous quantities, like Ses Salines in Majorca or Les Salines in Sant Boi de Llobregat, this last, before it was converted in an industrial park. This is the main reason because of she and her friends are visiting Marsa el-Forn in Żebbuġ, Gozo. 

Salt is very important in our lives. It's useful for cooking, having a good health and, even, is one of the most important elements in the armament industry.

Marsalforn or Marsa el-Forn is a village on the north coast of Gozo, the second largest island of the Maltese archipelago. The village lies between the hill-top towns of Xagħra and Żebbuġ. The village forms part of the locality of Żebbuġ.  

More information: Żebbuġ-Gozo

Marsa el-Forn is one of the most popular tourist resorts on Gozo. It is well served with hotels, guest houses, restaurants, bars, and beaches. There is only a one small sandy beach in Marsa el-Forn, however, along the rocky coastline there are a number of interesting swimming spots. Also, there's only one police station in Marsa el-Forn.

Visiting the saltpans in Marsa el-Forn

Marsa el-Forn is a composite word. Marsa is an Arabic word meaning port or bay. There is disagreement on the origin of the second part of the word forn. Forn means a bakery in Maltese and Arabic, but it is highly improbable that this has anything to do with Marsa el-Forn, for it is unlikely that a bakery would be built in an area with a small population. 

It is quite likely that this name, like that of other Gozitan ports, might refer to a type of ship. In that case it would derive from Liburna, an Illyrian type of a ship, which became livurna in Greek, and lifurna in Arabic. 

More information: Visit Gozo

The name might also have been derived from forna, a word used by Gozitan fishermen to refer to a cave hollowed out by the sea. There are several of these in Marsa el-Forn, the best known being Ghar Qawqla, the cave at the steep hill. The emblem of Marsa el-Forn consists of a blue shield representing Marsa el-Forn harbour, encircled by a golden border. 

Claire Fontaine is visiting the saltpans

Saint Paul, according to tradition, left for Rome, after his shipwreck, from Marsa el-Forn; hence the emblem of Saint Paul: a viper encircling the sword. The viper refers to the episode involving Saint Paul just after his shipwreck on Malta as recorded in the Acts of the Apostles.

To the south of Marsa el-Forn is a fertile valley named after the village. The valley is bounded by several hillocks and used to be known as the haven of hillocks. The most famous of these is tas-Salvatur also referred locally as Tal-Merzuq Hill due to the legends surrounding it, recorded by Giovanni Abela in the 17th Century.

More information: Travels with Tricia

This volcano like hill has acquired the attention of the people since 1901, when a large wooden cross was erected on its peak. Three years later, when Gozo was consecrated to Christ the Saviour, a stone statue of Christ replaced the cross. This was in turn replaced by a gigantic concrete statue towering twelve meteres above the hill, which remains to this day.

Tina Picotes in the saltpans at sunset

As recorded in the Acts of the Apostles, Paul the Apostle was shipwrecked in Malta, but legend maintains that it was from Marsa el-Forn that he embarked for Sicily and Rome. 

Today, this legend is symbolised by the village's emblem, which consists of a viper encircling a sword. This refers to an episode involving Saint Paul when he remained unharmed after being bit by a viper.

The village church of Saint Paul Shipwreck is also dedicated to the memory of Saint Paul departure from Marsa el-Forn. The church, originally raised in the fourteenth century, has been rebuilt and enlarged many times. The foundation stone of the present church was laid in 1730. The feast is celebrated on 10 February every year.

More information: MedWet

Marsa el-Forn has a history which dates back to Roman times. Until the sixteenth century, the port was the most important in Gozo. Imported food supplies from Sicily were unloaded at Marsa el-Forn, and it was from there that passengers boarded to travel to Licata in Sicily and other continental ports.

Joseph de Ca'th Lon contemplates the saltpans

The importance of Marsa el-Forn had grown so much that by the late sixteenth and early seventeenth century the Knights of the Order of Saint John, the rulers of Malta at the time, considered abandoning the old Citadel in the centre of the island and building a new town overlooking the port. 

Hostility from the Gozitan people meant that the plans were never realised. They protested that they were too poor to pay the extra tax needed to finance the move and the disruption caused by the transfer of their homes from Rabat to Marsa el-Forn would be too great. 

With the development of Mgarr harbour, Marsa el-Forn lost its importance and for several centuries, it remained a quiet fishing village inhabited by a small community of fishermen and their families.

More information: Azure

The cure for anything is salt water: 

sweat, tears or the sea. 

Isak Dinesen