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Exceptional environmental conditions led to the temporary closure of the massif following the activation of Level 4 of the Pla Alfa (due to extreme fire risk); however, access was permitted again yesterday, Monday, so The Grandma took the opportunity to engage in one of her favorite activities: birdwatching.
El Parc Natural dels Ports shared by Catalonia, Aragon and the Valencian Country, is one of the most spectacular mountain landscapes in the western Mediterranean. Deep limestone gorges, dramatic cliffs, ancient forests of black pine, holm oak and beech, together with vast areas of almost inaccessible wilderness, create the perfect refuge for an extraordinary diversity of wildlife.
Among its richest natural treasures are its birds of prey, magnificent hunters and scavengers that dominate the skies above the massif. The abundance of cliffs suitable for nesting, extensive forests for shelter, and a healthy population of wild mammals have allowed several emblematic raptor species to survive here for centuries.
Today, Els Ports is considered one of the finest places in Catalonia to observe large birds of prey in their natural habitat.
Griffon Vulture (Gyps fulvus)
Perhaps the easiest raptor to spot in Els Ports is the griffon vulture, whose enormous silhouette frequently circles high above the mountains. With a wingspan reaching 2.7 metres (almost 9 feet), it is among Europe's largest flying birds.
Unlike eagles, griffon vultures are not hunters. They are highly specialised scavengers that feed almost exclusively on carrion. Their remarkable eyesight allows them to detect animal carcasses from great distances, while their powerful soaring abilities enable them to travel dozens of kilometres with almost no wingbeats, using rising warm air currents known as thermals.
Far from being sinister birds, vultures perform one of nature's most essential ecological services. By rapidly consuming dead animals, they prevent the spread of disease, recycle nutrients and help maintain healthy ecosystems.
The impressive limestone cliffs of Els Ports provide ideal nesting colonies, where pairs return year after year to raise a single chick.
Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos)
The golden eagle is undoubtedly one of Europe's most iconic birds of prey and represents the untamed spirit of the mountains.
Although considerably less common than the griffon vulture, breeding pairs occupy extensive territories throughout the massif. Golden eagles require vast hunting grounds, often covering over 100 square kilometres, where they prey on rabbits, partridges, pigeons, reptiles and occasionally young mountain goats.
Their eyesight is legendary. A golden eagle can detect movement several kilometres away and dive toward its prey at speeds exceeding 200 km/h.
These birds usually mate for life and often reuse the same enormous nest -known as an eyrie- for many consecutive years, adding fresh branches each breeding season until it becomes an impressive structure.
Bonelli's Eagle (Aquila fasciata)
The Bonelli's eagle, sometimes called the Bonelli eagle, is one of the Mediterranean's most threatened birds of prey.
Els Ports represents one of its important strongholds because the combination of rocky cliffs, open woodland and scrubland offers ideal breeding and hunting conditions.
Slightly smaller than the golden eagle but exceptionally agile, Bonelli's eagles hunt rabbits, pigeons, partridges and other medium-sized birds with remarkable speed and precision.
Unfortunately, populations have declined across southern Europe due to habitat fragmentation, accidental electrocution on power lines, collisions with infrastructure and reduced prey availability. Conservation programmes have focused considerable effort on protecting nesting sites and improving breeding success, making every successful pair particularly valuable.
Northern Goshawk (Accipiter gentilis)
While many of Els Ports' raptors dominate open skies, the Northern goshawk is the hidden predator of the forests.
Dense pine and mixed woodlands provide perfect cover for this remarkably powerful hunter. Unlike soaring eagles, goshawks rely on surprise. Their relatively short wings and long tail allow extraordinary manoeuvrability as they weave between tree trunks in pursuit of prey.
Small mammals, pigeons, woodpeckers, jays and even squirrels can all become victims of the goshawk's explosive attacks.
Because of its secretive behaviour, many visitors may spend days in the park without ever seeing one, although they may hear its distinctive calls echoing through the forest.
Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus)
The peregrine falcon is widely recognised as the fastest animal on Earth.
When hunting, it performs spectacular high-speed dives -known as stoops- that may exceed 320 km/h. During these breathtaking attacks, the falcon strikes its prey in mid-air with tremendous force before catching it as it falls.
The towering cliffs throughout Els Ports offer ideal nesting ledges protected from predators and human disturbance.
Pigeons, swifts, starlings and many other birds form the core of its diet, making the peregrine one of nature's most efficient aerial hunters.
Its extraordinary speed, combined with exceptional eyesight, has fascinated naturalists for centuries and made the species an enduring symbol of power and precision.
Eurasian Eagle-Owl (Bubo bubo)
When daylight fades, another ruler takes possession of the mountains: the Eurasian eagle-owl.
The largest owl in Europe, with a wingspan approaching two metres, it is instantly recognisable by its striking orange eyes and prominent feather tufts that resemble ears.
Unlike the diurnal raptors, the eagle-owl hunts almost exclusively at night. Rabbits, rats, hedgehogs, reptiles and even other birds may all become prey.
Its deep, resonant hooting carries across valleys on calm evenings and can often be heard several kilometres away. Because of its nocturnal habits and remarkable camouflage, however, actually seeing one remains an unforgettable privilege.
Pairs usually occupy the same territory for many years, nesting on rocky ledges or sheltered cliff cavities.
The exceptional concentration of birds of prey in Els Ports is no coincidence. Several ecological factors combine to create ideal conditions:
-extensive limestone cliffs suitable for nesting;
-mature forests offering shelter and hunting grounds;
-abundant prey such as rabbits, partridges and pigeons;
-low human population density in many mountain areas;
-strong thermal air currents that allow soaring species to travel effortlessly.
Together, these conditions support one of the richest raptor communities in Europe. In addition to the resident species, summer visitors such as the Short-toed Snake Eagle, Booted Eagle, and Egyptian Vulture also breed in the park. In recent years, observers have also recorded occasional visits by the Bearded Vulture and the Cinereous Vulture, reflecting wider conservation efforts in the region.
Although these magnificent birds have survived for thousands of years, they continue to face modern challenges. Habitat disturbance, illegal poisoning, collisions with power infrastructure, climate change and declining prey populations all threaten some species.
The protection of el Parc Natural dels Ports Natural has played a crucial role in safeguarding these birds by preserving nesting sites, regulating potentially disturbing activities and promoting scientific monitoring. Continued conservation efforts ensure that future generations will also be able to witness the unforgettable sight of a golden eagle soaring above the limestone peaks or hear the haunting call of an eagle-owl beneath a star-filled Mediterranean sky.
Standing on one of the rocky viewpoints of Els Ports and looking up into the endless blue sky, it is impossible not to feel a sense of wonder. High above, griffon vultures glide effortlessly on invisible currents, golden eagles patrol ancient territories, peregrine falcons streak through the air with breathtaking speed, and, when darkness falls, the eagle-owl silently takes over the mountains.
These birds are far more than spectacular wildlife. They are living symbols of healthy ecosystems, wilderness and resilience -silent guardians that remind us why landscapes like Els Ports deserve our admiration, our respect and our protection.
More information: Parc Natural dels Ports
Download Els Ocells del Parc Natural dels Ports
that she feels bending beneath her,
still she sings away all the same,
knowing she has wings.
Victor Hugo
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