Thursday, 30 July 2026

OTTERS IN ELS PORTS, THE GUARDIANS OF THE RIVERS

The Grandma has paused two of the three courses she is currently taking for the summer holidays and has returned to Barcelona after spending a few days in el Parc Natural dels Ports de Tortosa-Beseit.

Today, she has spent time looking through the photos she took during her trip and has decided to look up more information about the otter -an animal that used to be common in Catalan rivers, nearly went extinct, and is now frequently being sighted again.

Some animals capture our imagination because of their strength. Others because of their beauty. The Eurasian otter (Lutra lutra) belongs to a rarer category: it inspires admiration because it reminds us that nature can heal itself -if we allow it to.

Few visitors exploring el Parc Naturals dels Ports de Tortosa-Beseit, shared by Catalonia, Valencia and Aragon, ever expect to encounter an otter. In fact, most never will. Unlike the majestic griffon vultures soaring above the limestone cliffs or the Iberian ibex confidently crossing rocky slopes, otters are masters of invisibility. They move mostly during twilight and at night, slipping silently through crystal-clear rivers beneath dense riverside vegetation. Yet their hidden presence tells an extraordinary story.

The otter is much more than one of the park's mammals. It is one of the clearest indicators that the rivers of Els Ports remain among the healthiest freshwater ecosystems in the Iberian Peninsula. Its survival represents decades of conservation, cleaner waters, restored habitats and a growing understanding that protecting rivers means protecting countless other forms of life.

Today, the otter has become one of the silent guardians of Els Ports. The Eurasian otter is one of Europe's most remarkable aquatic predators. Although it belongs to the weasel family (Mustelidae), it has evolved into a superb swimmer capable of living almost entirely around rivers, streams and wetlands. 

An adult typically measures between 90 and 130 centimetres in total length, including its long muscular tail, and weighs between 6 and 12 kilograms, with males generally being larger tan females. Every part of its body has been shaped by evolution for life in water. Its dense waterproof fur contains hundreds of thousands of hairs per square centimetre, trapping air close to the skin and providing excellent insulation even during cold winter months. Its streamlined body allows it to glide effortlessly through water with minimal resistance. Its feet are fully webbed. Its powerful tail acts as both rudder and engine. Its ears and nostrils close automatically when submerged. 

Most impressive of all are its whiskers, known scientifically as vibrissae. These highly sensitive organs detect the slightest movement in the water, allowing the otter to locate fish even in complete darkness or murky conditions. While humans rely mainly on vision, otters feel the movement of the water itself.

Els Ports is often celebrated for its spectacular mountains, dramatic cliffs and ancient forests. Less well known -but equally important- is its intricate network of rivers. Streams born from rainfall filtering through limestone mountains carve deep valleys before joining larger rivers that eventually reach the Mediterranean. Among the best-known waterways are stretches connected to the Matarranya, Ulldemó, Algars and Sénia river systems. These rivers are characterised by exceptionally clear water, rocky beds, waterfalls, natural pools and abundant riparian vegetation. Such habitats provide everything an otter needs:

-Clean, oxygen-rich water.

-Healthy fish populations.

-Crayfish and amphibians.

-Dense vegetation for shelter.

-Quiet riverbanks with little disturbance.

Otters are extremely demanding animals. Unlike many species capable of adapting to degraded environments, they disappear quickly when rivers become polluted or heavily altered. Their presence therefore serves as an ecological certificate of river health. Where otters thrive, freshwater ecosystems are usually functioning well.

Despite their playful reputation, otters are efficient hunters. Fish make up most of their diet, especially species that are easier to catch than fast-swimming predators. They also consume freshwater crayfish, frogs, aquatic insects, small mammals, birds and occasionally reptiles. Rather than chasing prey over long distances, otters often rely on stealth. Swimming quietly beneath the surface, they suddenly accelerate with remarkable speed. Their flexible bodies allow rapid turns impossible for many fish to escape. Interestingly, otters rarely overhunt. Their feeding habits naturally adapt to seasonal availability. This flexibility helps maintain ecological balance rather than exhausting prey populations.

Because videos of playful otters are immensely popular online, many people imagine them as carefree, sociable creatures. Reality is rather different. The Eurasian otter is highly territorial. Adults usually live alone except during the breeding season or when mothers are raising cubs. Each individual patrols long stretches of river, marking its territory using droppings called spraints. These spraints serve as chemical messages informing neighbouring otters about identity, reproductive status and territorial boundaries.

Scientists often locate otters not by seeing them, but by finding these characteristic markings beneath bridges, on rocks or beside riverbanks. Even experienced wildlife researchers may spend months studying otters without ever observing one directly.

Only a few decades ago, the future looked bleak. Throughout much of Europe, including Catalonia, otter populations collapsed dramatically during the twentieth century. Several factors acted simultaneously.

-Industrial pollution contaminated rivers with toxic chemicals.

-Agricultural pesticides entered freshwater systems.

-Wetlands were drained.

-Riverbanks were modified.

-Dams fragmented habitats.

-Fish populations declined.

-Otters were also hunted because they were wrongly blamed for reducing fish stocks. 

By the 1970s and early 1980s, the species had disappeared from many regions where it had once been common. Its decline became one of Europe's clearest warnings about freshwater ecosystem degradation. The disappearance of the otter was not simply the loss of one mammal. It reflected the collapse of entire river systems.

Fortunately, the story did not end there. Across Catalonia, water quality gradually improved thanks to stricter environmental regulations. Protected natural areas expanded. Wastewater treatment became more effective. Illegal hunting declined. Scientific monitoring increased. As rivers slowly recovered, otters began recolonising former territories. Their return happened naturally in many places. No large-scale reintroduction was necessary. Instead, surviving populations expanded along connected river systems whenever habitat conditions became suitable again. Els Ports benefited greatly from this recovery. The park's relatively unspoiled rivers provided ideal corridors for recolonisation.

Today, otters once again inhabit several waterways within and around the protected area. Although they remain elusive, evidence of their presence has become increasingly common. Their recovery stands as one of Europe's most encouraging conservation success stories.

Some may wonder why conservationists invest so much effort protecting a single species. The answer lies in the otter's ecological role. Otters are apex predators within freshwater food webs. By preying primarily on weaker, diseased or more easily captured fish, they help maintain healthier aquatic communities. More importantly, protecting otters indirectly protects entire ecosystems. Conserving an otter population requires:

-Healthy rivers.

-Native fish.

-Clean water.

-Natural vegetation.

-Functional floodplains.

-Reduced pollution.

Thousands of other species benefit from exactly these same conditions. In conservation biology, this is known as an umbrella species. Protecting one demanding animal safeguards countless others living beneath its ecological umbrella.

Although the outlook is much brighter than fifty years ago, otters still face significant challenges.

-Water pollution remains a serious concern.

-Plastic waste increasingly reaches rivers.

-Road mortality occurs where highways cross waterways.

-Climate change threatens river flows through prolonged droughts.

-Illegal fish traps occasionally injure or kill otters.

-Human disturbance from recreational activities may also affect breeding females.

One of the greatest long-term threats is habitat fragmentation. Healthy rivers need to remain connected. When barriers isolate populations, genetic diversity declines and recolonisation becomes more difficult. Protecting individual stretches of river is therefore not enough. Entire watersheds must remain ecologically functional.

Interestingly, otters are proving more adaptable than once believed. As river quality improves, they are recolonising areas surprisingly close to towns and cities. The key is not complete wilderness. Rather, they require healthy water, sufficient food and quiet refuges. This adaptability offers hope. Human development and wildlife conservation do not always have to be opposing forces. Thoughtful river management can benefit both biodiversity and local communities. Cleaner rivers also mean safer drinking water, healthier fisheries, greater resilience against climate change and more enjoyable natural spaces for people. The otter reminds us that environmental conservation ultimately serves humanity as well.

Visitors hoping to observe otters in Els Ports should adjust their expectations. Patience is essential. Seeing one is a privilege rather than a guarantee. The best approach is simply to enjoy the rivers themselves. Early morning or late evening offer the highest chances, though encounters remain rare. Instead of searching obsessively for the animal, many naturalists look for signs:

-Fresh footprints in muddy banks.

-Sliding marks where otters enter the water.

-Spraints deposited on prominent rocks.

-Fish remains.

These subtle clues often reveal far more about otter behaviour than a brief glimpse ever could. Above all, visitors should respect river habitats by remaining on established paths, avoiding unnecessary noise and never attempting to follow wildlife. The greatest gift we can offer these animals is to leave them undisturbed.

Conservation stories often focus on extinctions, habitat destruction and environmental crises. Those stories deserve attention. But nature also offers examples of resilience. The Eurasian otter represents one of those rare success stories. Its return demonstrates that ecosystems can recover. Polluted rivers can become clean again. Wildlife can reclaim forgotten territories. Human decisions can reverse decades of environmental decline. The otter's presence in Els Ports is therefore much more than an interesting biological fact. It is evidence that conservation works.

Every clean stream, every restored riverbank and every protected watershed contributes to a future where both people and wildlife can flourish together. Perhaps that is why the otter fascinates so many who study it. It is rarely seen. It asks for almost nothing beyond healthy rivers. And in return, it offers one of the most powerful messages nature can share. When the otter returns, the river is alive. When the river is alive, hope flows with it.

More information: Guia de la Reserva dels Ports


Few people actually see the Eurasian otter in the wild, 
yet it has become one of the most popular species.

Daniel Allen

Wednesday, 29 July 2026

A VOICE THAT'S BURIED IN THE HOLLOW... I'M NOT LEAVIN'

Go raibh an talamh éadrom ort, Glen.

Even if a day feels too longYou feel like you can't wait another oneYou're slowly givin' up on everythingLove is gonna find you again
 
Love is gonna find you, you better be ready then
 
You been kneelin' in the dark for far too longYou've been waitin' for that spark, but it hasn't comeWell I'm callin' to you, please, get off the floorA good heart will find you again
 
A good heart will find you, just be ready then
 
Tethered to a bird of sorrowA voice that's buried in the hollowYou've given over to self-deceivin'Your prostrate bowed would not be leavin'You've squandered more than you could borrowYou've bet your joys on all tomorrowsFor the hope of some returnin'While everything around just burnin'
 
Come on, we gotta get out, get out of this mess we madeAnd still for all our talk, we're both so afraidWill we leave this up to chance, like we do everything?Love is gonna find us again
 
Love is gonna find us, we gotta be ready then
 
Tethered to a bird of sorrowA voice that's buried in the hollowYou've given over to self-deceivin'Your prostrate bowed would not be leavin'You've squandered more than you could borrowYou've bet your joys on all tomorrowsFor the hope of some returnin'While everything around you's burnin'
 
But I'm not leavin' you yetI'm not leavin' you yetI'm not leavin'I'm not leavin', yeah, yeahI'm not leavin'I'm not leavin', yeah, yeahI'm hangin' onHangin' onWhat's gonna come?I'm hangin' on nowHangin' on, hangin' on, hangin' onHangin' on, hangin' on, hangin' on
 
With the faithfulWith the faithfulI'm hangin' onWhat's gonna come?What's gonna come?Hangin' onHangin' on
 

I guess in a way I just feel blessed 
to be able to make music.

Glen Hansard

Tuesday, 28 July 2026

BIRDS OF PREY IN THE MOUNTAINS OF TORTOSA-BESEIT

Last weekend, The Grandma headed to el Parc Natural dels Ports de Tortosa-Beseit for some birdwatching

Exceptional environmental conditions led to the temporary closure of the massif following the activation of Level 4 of the Pla Alfa (due to extreme fire risk); however, access was permitted again yesterday, Monday, so The Grandma took the opportunity to engage in one of her favourite activities: birdwatching

El Parc Natural dels Ports shared by Catalonia, Aragon and the Valencian Country, is one of the most spectacular mountain landscapes in the western Mediterranean. Deep limestone gorges, dramatic cliffs, ancient forests of black pine, holm oak and beech, together with vast areas of almost inaccessible wilderness, create the perfect refuge for an extraordinary diversity of wildlife.

Among its richest natural treasures are its birds of prey, magnificent hunters and scavengers that dominate the skies above the massif. The abundance of cliffs suitable for nesting, extensive forests for shelter, and a healthy population of wild mammals have allowed several emblematic raptor species to survive here for centuries. 

Today, Els Ports is considered one of the finest places in Catalonia to observe large birds of prey in their natural habitat.

Griffon Vulture (Gyps fulvus)

Perhaps the easiest raptor to spot in Els Ports is the griffon vulture, whose enormous silhouette frequently circles high above the mountains. With a wingspan reaching 2.7 metres (almost 9 feet), it is among Europe's largest flying birds.

Unlike eagles, griffon vultures are not hunters. They are highly specialised scavengers that feed almost exclusively on carrion. Their remarkable eyesight allows them to detect animal carcasses from great distances, while their powerful soaring abilities enable them to travel dozens of kilometres with almost no wingbeats, using rising warm air currents known as thermals.

Far from being sinister birds, vultures perform one of nature's most essential ecological services. By rapidly consuming dead animals, they prevent the spread of disease, recycle nutrients and help maintain healthy ecosystems.

The impressive limestone cliffs of Els Ports provide ideal nesting colonies, where pairs return year after year to raise a single chick.

Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos)

The golden eagle is undoubtedly one of Europe's most iconic birds of prey and represents the untamed spirit of the mountains.

Although considerably less common than the griffon vulture, breeding pairs occupy extensive territories throughout the massif. Golden eagles require vast hunting grounds, often covering over 100 square kilometres, where they prey on rabbits, partridges, pigeons, reptiles and occasionally young mountain goats.

Their eyesight is legendary. A golden eagle can detect movement several kilometres away and dive toward its prey at speeds exceeding 200 km/h.

These birds usually mate for life and often reuse the same enormous nest -known as an eyrie- for many consecutive years, adding fresh branches each breeding season until it becomes an impressive structure.

Bonelli's Eagle (Aquila fasciata)

The Bonelli's eagle, sometimes called the Bonelli eagle, is one of the Mediterranean's most threatened birds of prey.

Els Ports represents one of its important strongholds because the combination of rocky cliffs, open woodland and scrubland offers ideal breeding and hunting conditions.

Slightly smaller than the golden eagle but exceptionally agile, Bonelli's eagles hunt rabbits, pigeons, partridges and other medium-sized birds with remarkable speed and precision.

Unfortunately, populations have declined across southern Europe due to habitat fragmentation, accidental electrocution on power lines, collisions with infrastructure and reduced prey availability. Conservation programmes have focused considerable effort on protecting nesting sites and improving breeding success, making every successful pair particularly valuable.

Northern Goshawk (Accipiter gentilis)

While many of Els Ports' raptors dominate open skies, the Northern goshawk is the hidden predator of the forests.

Dense pine and mixed woodlands provide perfect cover for this remarkably powerful hunter. Unlike soaring eagles, goshawks rely on surprise. Their relatively short wings and long tail allow extraordinary manoeuvrability as they weave between tree trunks in pursuit of prey.

Small mammals, pigeons, woodpeckers, jays and even squirrels can all become victims of the goshawk's explosive attacks.

Because of its secretive behaviour, many visitors may spend days in the park without ever seeing one, although they may hear its distinctive calls echoing through the forest.

Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus)

The peregrine falcon is widely recognised as the fastest animal on Earth.

When hunting, it performs spectacular high-speed dives -known as stoops- that may exceed 320 km/h. During these breathtaking attacks, the falcon strikes its prey in mid-air with tremendous force before catching it as it falls.

The towering cliffs throughout Els Ports offer ideal nesting ledges protected from predators and human disturbance.

Pigeons, swifts, starlings and many other birds form the core of its diet, making the peregrine one of nature's most efficient aerial hunters.

Its extraordinary speed, combined with exceptional eyesight, has fascinated naturalists for centuries and made the species an enduring symbol of power and precision.

Eurasian Eagle-Owl (Bubo bubo)

When daylight fades, another ruler takes possession of the mountains: the Eurasian eagle-owl.

The largest owl in Europe, with a wingspan approaching two metres, it is instantly recognisable by its striking orange eyes and prominent feather tufts that resemble ears.

Unlike the diurnal raptors, the eagle-owl hunts almost exclusively at night. Rabbits, rats, hedgehogs, reptiles and even other birds may all become prey.

Its deep, resonant hooting carries across valleys on calm evenings and can often be heard several kilometres away. Because of its nocturnal habits and remarkable camouflage, however, actually seeing one remains an unforgettable privilege.

Pairs usually occupy the same territory for many years, nesting on rocky ledges or sheltered cliff cavities.

The exceptional concentration of birds of prey in Els Ports is no coincidence. Several ecological factors combine to create ideal conditions:

-extensive limestone cliffs suitable for nesting;

-mature forests offering shelter and hunting grounds;

-abundant prey such as rabbits, partridges and pigeons;

-low human population density in many mountain areas;

-strong thermal air currents that allow soaring species to travel effortlessly.

Together, these conditions support one of the richest raptor communities in Europe. In addition to the resident species, summer visitors such as the Short-toed Snake Eagle, Booted Eagle, and Egyptian Vulture also breed in the park. In recent years, observers have also recorded occasional visits by the Bearded Vulture and the Cinereous Vulture, reflecting wider conservation efforts in the region.

Although these magnificent birds have survived for thousands of years, they continue to face modern challenges. Habitat disturbance, illegal poisoning, collisions with power infrastructure, climate change and declining prey populations all threaten some species.

The protection of el Parc Natural dels Ports Natural has played a crucial role in safeguarding these birds by preserving nesting sites, regulating potentially disturbing activities and promoting scientific monitoring. Continued conservation efforts ensure that future generations will also be able to witness the unforgettable sight of a golden eagle soaring above the limestone peaks or hear the haunting call of an eagle-owl beneath a star-filled Mediterranean sky.

Standing on one of the rocky viewpoints of Els Ports and looking up into the endless blue sky, it is impossible not to feel a sense of wonder. High above, griffon vultures glide effortlessly on invisible currents, golden eagles patrol ancient territories, peregrine falcons streak through the air with breathtaking speed, and, when darkness falls, the eagle-owl silently takes over the mountains.

These birds are far more than spectacular wildlife. They are living symbols of healthy ecosystems, wilderness and resilience -silent guardians that remind us why landscapes like Els Ports deserve our admiration, our respect and our protection.

More information: Parc Natural dels Ports 

Download Els Ocells del Parc Natural dels Ports


Be as a bird perched on a frail branch 
that she feels bending beneath her, 
still she sings away all the same, 
knowing she has wings.

Victor Hugo

Monday, 27 July 2026

POR AUSÊNCIA OU POR CANSAÇO, CHEGOU A HORA!

Et trobem molt a faltar, Susana.

Namorei a tua ausência
Por tantas noites vazias
Que agora, pede a prudência,
Que eu te ausente dos meus dias!

É que a ausência de ti
É uma noite tão escura
Que eu não sei sair dali,
Sair à tua procura...

O corpo sente-se ausente
Na cama onde não se deita,
E sabe o melhor presente
Que a noite não aceita. 

Meu amor, chegou a hora
De o tempo negar o espaço
Em que o corpo se namora
Por ausência ou por cansaço:

No entanto, és sempre tu;
Sempre que canto o meu fado,
É quase o teu corpo nu
Quase, quase aqui ao lado...
 
Tenho a noite por exílio,
A tua ausência por lei:
Venha o fado ao meu auxílio
Ou nunca mais cantarei!

O corpo sente-se ausente
Na cama onde não se deita,
E sabe o melhor presente
Que a noite não aceita. 

Meu amor, chegou a hora
De o tempo negar o espaço
Em que o corpo se namora
Por ausência ou por cansaço:
Meu amor, chegou a hora!

 

I courted your absence
Through so many empty nights
That now, prudence demands
I banish you from my days!

For the absence of you
Is a night so dark
That I know not how to leave it,
How to go out in search of you...

The body feels absent
In the bed where it does not lie,
And knows the finest gift
That the night will not accept.

My love, the time has come
For time to deny the space
Where the body courts itself
Through absence or through weariness:

Yet, it is always you;
Whenever I sing my fado,
It is almost your naked body-
Almost, almost right here beside me...

I hold the night as my exile,
Your absence as my law:
May fado come to my aid,
Or I shall sing no more!

The body feels absent
In the bed where it does not lie,
And knows the finest gift
That the night will not accept.

My love, the time has come
For time to deny the space
Where the body courts itself
Through absence or through weariness:
My love, the time has come!

More information: Mísia


É assim que canto o fado: 
voltando-me para dentro e fazendo um certo esforço. 
Tecnicamente... acho muito importante encontrar 
a voz interior dentro da voz exterior 
— a voz das emoções.

That’s how I sing fado: 
turning inward and making a bit of an effort. 
Technically... I think it’s very important to find 
the inner voice within the outer voice
—the voice of the emotions.

Mísia

Sunday, 26 July 2026

THE GRANDMA & EL PN DELS PORTS DE TORTOSA-BESEIT

Today, The Grandma has continued her visit to the Terres de l'Ebre, enjoying one of the most spectacular places one can visit: the Parc Natural dels Ports de Tortosa-Beseit -a natural area of​​ breathtaking beauty where wild flora and fauna coexist in perfect harmony.
 
Ports de Tortosa-Beseit, also known as Ports de Beseit, or simply as Els Ports or Lo Port by locals, is a limestone mountain massif located at the north-eastern end of the Iberian System, a complex system of mountain ranges and massifs in the centre of the Iberian Peninsula. Its highest point is Mont Caro, 1,441m. Rivers such as the Matarranya and the Sènia have their source in these mountains.


At the 1350m high Tossal dels Tres Reis, where the borders of the ancient Kingdoms of Valencia, Catalonia and Aragon meet, there is a cairn marking the meeting point of the ancient three kingdoms of the Crown of Aragon.

It is mostly a limestone massif, with many steep cliffs, jagged peaks, deep valleys, shafts and caves. The area is mostly uninhabited except for small villages. These mountains were one of the last redoubts of the Maquis in the 1940s and 50s.

One of the largest colonies of griffon vultures in Europe, as well as Iberian Ibex, Roe Deer, Wild Boar, European badgers, common genets, grey wagtails, among others, have their habitat in these lonely mountains.

Among the aquatic animals there are trout in some of the rivers and amphibians such as the Marbled newt in many of the ponds of the range.

The vegetation of the Ports is rich and varied. Besides the Mediterranean species, there are also species belonging to Alpine flora and colder temperate regions at high altitudes and in protected valleys.

The Ports Massif comprises several mountain ranges, like the Muntanyes de Benifassà, Serra de les Falconeres, Serra del Àguila, Serra de Rastell, Los Curullons, Moles de Raudorar, Serra de la Fortalesa, Serra de Caro, Serra de la Puca, Serra de Rafalgari, Serra de Paüls, Serra de les Deveres, Serra de l'Escaleta, Serra d'Encanader, Serra del Pedregal, Serra del Coc and Serra de l'Espina. The latter, located at its northern end, connects with the Catalan Pre-Coastal Range.

Some of the main peaks of the massif are: Mont Caro (1441 m), the highest point, Castell de l'Airosa, Tossal d'en Cervera, Mola del Boix, Mola del Boixet, el Castellar, la Portella del Pinell, Curullons, el Negrell, Punta de l'Àliga, Farrubio, Penyaflor, Mola de Catí, Tossal dels Tres Reis, Tossa Blanca, Roques de Benet, Penyagalera, Mola de Lli, Tossal de Tall Nou, Tossal de l'Espada, la Ballestera, Mola de la Paridera, Muntanyola, La Tossa, Mola Castellona, Tossal de Joan Gran, Tossal de la Forca, Tossal d'en Grillo, Muntanya de Santa Bàrbara, L'Espina and La Moleta d'Alfara.

There are two natural parks in the massif; there is no protected area on the Aragonese side:

-Parc Natural dels Ports on the Catalan side

-Parc Natural de la Tinença de Benifassà on the Valencian side

More information: Gencat

No és el mateix si fas una foto 
un segons abans que un després. 
La realitat està en constant moviment 
i això ho sabem molt bé els excursionistes.

It makes a difference whether you take a photo 
a second before or a second after. 
Reality is constantly in motion
—something we hikers know very well.
 
Vicent Pellicer 

Saturday, 25 July 2026

1938, 'PAISATGE DE L'EBRE / LES SABATES D'EN JAUME'

Today, Saint James, The Grandma wants to remember all those, who have not yet been accorded dignity and who continue to sleep in places where their families cannot keep vigil over them, nor their neighbours honour them.

Paisatge de l’Ebre (Les sabates d'en Jaume) is a poem by Josep Gual Lloberes that was set to music by Teresa Rebull (Sabadell, September 21, 1919-Banyuls-sur-Mer, April 15, 2015). 

I carry the burden of exile -my past- with me, and the songs bear that weight- said Teresa. Of anarchist background, she grew up constantly packing and unpacking her bundles in a Sabadell with a working-class flavour. Her adult life would be equally nomadic and turbulent. A POUM militant and collaborator with the maquis (resistance fighters), she found her most powerful weapon against the dictatorship in songs.

Proof of this is her most famous song, Paisatge de l’Ebre -also known as Les sabates d’en Jaume- a poem by Josep Gual about a Civil War soldier. Yet, she never stopped seeking new paths of struggle.
 

Avui he tornat a la Serra de Pàndols
I a la cova he trobat les sabates d'en Jaume
Un forat a les soles, una pinta de bales
Dins d'un plat enfangat, tres cascots de metralla

Des de l'any trenta-vuit
Jo no havia tornat
A la Serra de Pàndols
I a la cova han quedat
Les sabates d'en Jaume

Dins d'un plat enfangat, tres cascots de metralla
A la cova han quedat les sabates d'en Jaume
I els dies de l'oblit, si és que això mai s'oblida
Veurem el cel vermell d'aquesta nova albada

A Pàndols i a Cavalls centenars de companys
Després d'haver passat aquesta torbonada
No s'han podrit en va i, aquest ossos, qui sap
Si seran nous garbons que prendran arborada

Des de l'any trenta-vuit
Jo no havia tornat
A la Serra de Pàndols
I a la cova han quedat
Les sabates d'en Jaume


Today I returned to the Serra de Pàndols
And in the cave, I found Jaume's shoes
A hole in the soles, a clip of bullets
Inside a mud-caked plate, three shrapnel fragments

Since the year '38
I had not returned
To the Serra de Pàndols
And in the cave remain
Jaume's shoes

Inside a mud-caked plate, three shrapnel fragments
In the cave remain Jaume's shoes
And in the days of oblivion -if such a thing is ever forgotten-
We shall see the red sky of this new dawn

At Pàndols and Cavalls, hundreds of comrades
After having weathered that violent storm
Did not rot in vain; and these bones -who knows?
Perhaps they will be new saplings that grow into trees

Since the year '38
I had not returned
To the Serra de Pàndols
And in the cave remain
Jaume's shoes

More information: Catalunya Experience

 
No s'han podrit en va i, aquest ossos, qui sap 
si seran nous garbons que prendran arborada.

Did not rot in vain; and these bones -who knows?
perhaps they will be new saplings that grow into trees.

Josep Gual i Lloberes

Friday, 24 July 2026

JOHN NEWTON, THE LONG VOYAGE TO 'AMAZING GRACE'

Today, The Grandma has been reading about John Newton, the English evangelical Anglican cleric who wrote the hymn Amazing Grace -a song that endures from generation to generation and has been translated and adapted into various languages. 

On this day we remember the death of John Newton (1725–1807), a man whose life remains one of history's most extraordinary stories of moral transformation. His name may not be instantly familiar to everyone, yet the words he wrote have echoed across churches, concert halls, battlefields, and memorial services for more than two centuries.

Amazing grace! How sweet the sound,
That saved a wretch like me!
I once was lost, but now am found,
Was blind, but now I see.

John Newton (24 July 1725-21 December 1807) was an English evangelical Anglican cleric and slavery abolitionist. He had previously been a captain of slave ships and an investor in the slave trade. Newton served as a sailor in the Royal Navy (after forced recruitment) and was himself enslaved for a time in West Africa. Newton is noted for being author of the hymns Amazing Grace and Glorious Things of Thee Are Spoken.

Newton went to sea at a young age and worked on slave ships in the Atlantic slave trade for several years. In 1745, he became a slave of Princess Peye, a woman of the Sherbro people in what is now Sierra Leone. Newton was rescued, returned to sea and the trade, and captained several slave ships. After retiring from active sea-faring, he continued to invest in the slave trade. Some years after experiencing a conversion to Christianity during his rescue, Newton renounced his trade and became a prominent supporter of abolitionism. Now an evangelical, Newton was ordained as a Church of England cleric and served as parish priest at Olney, Buckinghamshire, for two decades and wrote hymns.

John Newton was born in Wapping, London, on 4 August 1725, the son of John Newton the Elder, a shipmaster in the Mediterranean service, and Elizabeth (née Scatliff). Elizabeth was the only daughter of Simon Scatliff, an instrument maker from London.

Newton lived to see the British Empire's abolition of the African slave trade in 1807, just months before his death.

Newton's life was filled with contradictions. He crossed the Atlantic as a sailor, endured hardship, commanded slave ships, experienced a profound spiritual awakening, became an Anglican clergyman, and eventually spoke publicly against the very trade that had once shaped his career. His journey was neither simple nor immediate, but it left behind one of the most enduring hymns ever written: Amazing Grace.

History often remembers John Newton for a single hymn. Yet reducing his life to Amazing Grace would be overlooking a far more remarkable story. His legacy is not that he was perfect, but that he dared to confront his own failures and spent the rest of his life trying to make amends. In an age that often demands flawless heroes or irredeemable villains, Newton reminds us that human beings are rarely so simple. His greatest achievement may not have been writing one of the world's most beloved hymns, but proving that genuine repentance can lead to meaningful change.

Some songs transcend the boundaries of language, culture, and even faith. They are sung in small country churches and magnificent cathedrals, at state funerals and private memorials, during moments of national grief and personal despair. Their melodies become so deeply woven into human memory that many people recognize them long before they know who wrote them. Amazing Grace is one of those extraordinary hymns.

Yet behind its timeless words stands a man whose life was anything but simple. John Newton was not born a saint, nor did history remember him as a flawless hero. He was a sailor, a slave trader, a survivor of storms, and eventually an Anglican clergyman whose profound sense of guilt shaped one of the most enduring expressions of hope ever written. His remarkable journey from the deck of slave ships to the pulpit of an English parish remains one of the most compelling stories of spiritual transformation in modern history.

Long after his ships had disappeared beneath the tides of history and his sermons had fallen silent, John Newton's voice continued to travel the world through a simple hymn. Sung by countless generations in moments of sorrow, gratitude, remembrance, and hope, Amazing Grace became far more than a religious song. It became a reminder that even in the darkest chapters of a human life, compassion and redemption may still find a way to speak.

To understand why Amazing Grace continues to move millions of people more than two centuries after it was first written, we must first understand the extraordinary life of the man who composed its unforgettable words.

More information: Amazing Grace, I once was lost but now am found


God works powerfully, 
but for the most part gently and gradually.

John Newton