They spent a wonderful night with their Occitan friends, enjoying of shared traditions because Catalunya and Occitania continue to have a political border, but not a cultural one.
Musings of The Grandma...
Every autumn, when the days become shorter and the first cold winds arrive, the smell of roasted chestnuts fills the streets of many towns and villages in Catalunya and Occitania.
It is a familiar smell, one that evokes childhood memories, family gatherings, old stories and traditions passed down from generation to generation. A chestnut may seem like a very ordinary fruit. However, behind its hard brown shell lies a fascinating story of survival, remembrance and cultural identity.
On both sides of the Pyrenees, this little fruit connects two peoples whose histories, languages and traditions have been closely intertwined for centuries. In Catalunya, we celebrate the Castanyada. In Occitania, we find the Castanhada and the ancient traditions of Martror.
Different names, different local customs, but a remarkably similar understanding of autumn, community and the importance of remembering those who came before us.
In Occitan, Martror is an ancient name associated with All Saints' Day, celebrated on 1 November. Its origins can be traced to the medieval Christian commemoration of the martyrs. Traditionally, the days surrounding Martror marked a particularly meaningful moment in the agricultural and spiritual calendar. The harvest was ending, winter was approaching, and families remembered their ancestors. According to popular beliefs, the boundary separating the living from the dead became symbolically thinner during this period. Food offerings, prayers, visits to cemeteries and family gatherings helped preserve the memory of those who had passed away.
Today, several Occitan communities have revived Martror through processions, storytelling, music and public celebrations. These events are not simply attempts to recreate the past. They are ways of keeping local cultural heritage alive. Remembering the dead is also a way of remembering who we are.
The chestnut has played an important role in the rural economies of southern Europe for centuries. In mountainous regions, chestnut trees provided food, wood and an essential resource for families facing difficult winters. Chestnuts could be roasted, boiled, dried or ground into flour. They were inexpensive, nutritious and easy to preserve.
In Occitania, autumn chestnut gatherings, known as Castanhadas, brought communities together to celebrate the harvest. In Catalunya, the Castanyada became closely associated with All Saints' Day and the remembrance of the dead. Families gathered to eat roasted chestnuts, sweet potatoes and panellets, small traditional sweets usually made with almonds and sugar. Although the precise origins of these customs are not entirely clear, they reflect an old relationship between seasonal food, family life and rituals of remembrance. And there is something particularly beautiful about this tradition.
A chestnut is not a luxurious delicacy. It is a humble fruit that once helped ordinary people survive. Perhaps that is why it has become such a powerful symbol of community.
One of the most beloved characters in Catalan autumn traditions is the castanyera, the chestnut seller. She is usually represented as an elderly woman wearing a headscarf, a long skirt and an apron, sitting beside a small stove and roasting chestnuts. Generations of Catalan children have grown up singing songs about her, drawing her picture and learning her story. For many people, she represents much more than a traditional street vendor. She is a symbol of kindness, simplicity, hard work and the warmth of childhood.
I still remember a beautifully illustrated children's book about the castanyera by the Catalan illustrator Joan Ferràndiz. It was one of my favourite books when I was a little girl. His illustrations had a special tenderness. His characters seemed to belong to a world where the smallest gestures could become extraordinary.
Even today, the image of an old woman selling roasted chestnuts brings back those childhood memories. The castanyera may be a particularly recognisable figure in Catalan popular culture, but the tradition of roasting and selling chestnuts also belongs to the wider cultural world of Occitania and other European regions. She reminds us that history is not only written by kings, politicians and soldiers.
History is also written by ordinary women who worked in the streets, prepared food, raised families and preserved traditions.
Perhaps someone would call it castanha. Perhaps someone else would call it castanya. But everyone would recognise its taste, its warmth and its place in the autumn celebrations. And perhaps that is the most beautiful lesson of the Castanhada and the Castanyada. Our identities do not need to be identical for us to recognise a shared heritage. We can celebrate our differences while remembering everything that brings us together. A very roasted chestnut carries a little piece of history. Every traditional song preserves a voice from the past. And every language that continues to be spoken keeps an entire world alive.
The cultural similarities between Catalunya and Occitania are not accidental. For centuries, the territories on both sides of the Pyrenees maintained close political, economic, artistic and family relationships. During the Middle Ages, Occitan and Catalan cultures shared a particularly rich literary environment.
The poetry of the troubadours circulated between Occitan courts and Catalan territories, influencing the development of medieval European literature. Catalan poets adopted Occitan as a prestigious literary language before Catalan gradually established its own poetic tradition.
The two languages belong to the Romance language family and preserve many similarities in vocabulary, grammar and pronunciation. Even the words castanha in Occitan and castanya in Catalan reveal this linguistic closeness. Yet their relationship goes far beyond vocabulary. Languages preserve ways of understanding the world. They contain the names of landscapes, the voices of ancestors, traditional songs, legends, recipes and memories. Both Occitan and Catalan have experienced periods of political pressure, social marginalisation and restrictions on their public use. Nevertheless, both have survived through the determination of generations who continued speaking, writing, teaching and loving them.
Today, defending these languages means defending a cultural heritage that belongs not only to their speakers but also to European history.
A language is not merely a means of communication. It is a way of remembering.
Sometimes, all we need to understand centuries of shared history is a little chestnut warming our hands on a cold autumn evening.
More information: Jornalet
cau minjar castanhas damb vin blanc.
On All Saints' Eve,
one should eat chestnuts with white wine.
Occitan proverb
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