THE STONES TASTE COUSCOUS & RFISSA IN TÉTOUAN

Today, The Stones & The Grandma have spent their last day in Tétouan. They have wanted to say goodbye to the city tasting its local cuisine.

Saida and Ivan Stone have invited the rest of the family to have lunch with a native family who has offered them couscous and rfissa, two of the most popular dishes of Tétouan.

Couscous is a Berber dish of small steamed balls of crushed durum wheat semolina that is traditionally served with a stew spooned on top. Pearl millet and sorghum, especially in the Sahel, and other cereals can be cooked in a similar way and the resulting dishes are also sometimes called couscous. Pearl or Israeli couscous, properly known as ptitim, is a type of pasta.

Couscous is a staple food throughout the Maghrebi cuisines of Algeria, Tunisia, Mauritania, Morocco, and Libya. It is consumed in France where couscous was introduced by Maghreb immigrants -Algerians, Moroccans and Tunisians.

The word couscous is of Berber origin. The exact formation of the word presents some obscurities. The Berber root √K-S means, well formed, well rolled, rounded. Numerous names and pronunciations for couscous exist around the world.

Couscous is traditionally made from the hard part of the durum, the part of the grain that resisted the grinding of the millstone. The semolina is sprinkled with water and rolled with the hands to form small pellets, sprinkled with dry flour to keep them separate, and then sieved. Any pellets that are too small to be finished granules of couscous fall through the sieve and are again rolled and sprinkled with dry semolina and rolled into pellets.

More information: Clifford A Wright

This labor-intensive process continues until all the semolina has been formed into tiny granules of couscous. In the traditional method of preparing couscous, groups of women come together to make large batches over several days, which were then dried in the sun and used for several months. Handmade couscous may need to be re-hydrated as it is prepared; this is achieved by a process of moistening and steaming over stew until the couscous reaches the desired light and fluffy consistency.

In some regions couscous is made from farina or coarsely ground barley or pearl millet. In Brazil, the traditional couscous is made from cornmeal.

In modern times, couscous production is largely mechanized, and the product is sold in markets around the world. This couscous can be sauteed before it is cooked in water or another liquid.

Properly cooked couscous is light and fluffy, not gummy or gritty. Traditionally, North Africans use a food steamer called ataseksut in Berber, a كِسْكَاس kiskas in Arabic or a couscoussier in French. The base is a tall metal pot shaped rather like an oil jar in which the meat and vegetables are cooked as a stew. On top of the base, a steamer sits where the couscous is cooked, absorbing the flavours from the stew. The lid to the steamer has holes around its edge so steam can escape.

It is also possible to use a pot with a steamer insert. If the holes are too big, the steamer can be lined with damp cheesecloth. There is little archaeological evidence of early diets including couscous, possibly because the original couscoussier was probably made from organic materials that could not survive extended exposure to the elements.

Rfissa (Arabic: رفيسة‎) is a dish that is very popular in Morocco and is served during various traditional celebrations.

It is traditionally served with chicken and lentils and fenugreek seeds, msemmen, meloui or day-old bread, and the blend of ras el hanout.

It's traditional to serve rfissa to a woman who has just given birth, as fenugreek is supposed to be beneficial for women that are recovering from child birth.

More information: Journey Beyond Travel

Little by little
the camel goes into the couscous.

Moroccan Proverb

THE GREAT MOSQUE, A PLACE OF RESPECT AND PRAYERS

Today, The Stones have visited The Great Mosque of Tétouan, a spiritual place for Muslims. They have learnt more about Muslim religion and culture. It has been an amazing interesting visit and an unforgettable experience.

The Great Mosque of Tétouan, Morocco, is the largest mosque in the medina of Tetouan and one of the city's most beautiful historical monuments.

The Great Mosque was built in the early 19th century, near the city's old Jewish quarter, which was moved to its present location at the other end of the medina.

An entire 19th-century quarter bearing the mosque's name developed around the mosque. The mosque's minaret was constructed as the highest point in the medina, and is visible from long distances.

The decoration of the minaret is a good example of the continued development of Andalusian architecture in Morocco over a period of many centuries. Located on the Mediterranean Sea east of Tangier, Tetouan served for centuries as a major point of contact between Morocco and the Arab culture of Andalusia on the Iberian Peninsula.

After the Reconquista –the retaking of Andalusia by the Christians of Spain–Tetouan was rebuilt by Andalusian refugees expelled by the Spanish.

In 1997, the medina of Tetouan was inscribed on the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites as an exceptionally-well preserved historic town, displaying all the features of the high Andalusian culture.

More information: Khan Academy

A mosque is a place of worship for Muslims. Any act of worship that follows the Islamic rules of prayer can be said to create a mosque, whether or not it takes place in a special building.

Informal and open-air places of worship are called musalla, while mosques used for communal prayer on Fridays are known as jāmiʿ.

Mosque buildings typically contain an ornamental niche (mihrab) set into the wall that indicates the direction of Mecca (qiblah), ablution facilities and minarets from which calls to prayer are issued. The pulpit (minbar), from which the Friday (jumu'ah) sermon (khutba) is delivered, was in earlier times characteristic of the central city mosque, but has since become common in smaller mosques.

Mosques typically have segregated spaces for men and women. This basic pattern of organization has assumed different forms depending on the region, period and denomination.

Mosques commonly serve as locations for prayer, Ramadan vigils, funeral services, Sufi ceremonies, marriage and business agreements, alms collection and distribution, as well as homeless shelters.

Historically, mosques were also important centers of elementary education and advanced training in religious sciences. In modern times, they have preserved their role as places of religious instruction and debate, but higher learning now generally takes place in specialised institutions.

Special importance is accorded to the Great Mosque of Mecca (centre of the hajj), the Prophet's Mosque in Medina (burial place of Muhammad) and Al-Aqsa Mosque in Jerusalem (believed to be the site of Muhammad's ascent to heaven).

In the past, many mosques in the Muslim world were built over burial places of Sufi saints and other venerated figures, which has turned them into popular pilgrimage destinations.

With the spread of Islam, mosques multiplied across the Islamic world. Sometimes churches and temples were converted into mosques, which influenced Islamic architectural styles.

More information: Journey Beyond Travel

There's just really interesting facets
of culture just swirling in Morocco.
They all have slightly different colours,
so it's just an inspiring place to be.

Mark Foster

THE WHITE DOVE, SYMBOL OF TÉTOUAN & THE BIG SOUK

Today, The Stones and The Grandma have started to visit Tétouan. They have discovered why the city is nicknamed the White Dove and they have visited the souk where they have spent their first shopping day.

Tétouan, known as the White Dove, is a city of Berber origin in Northern Morocco.

Its name means water springs in Berber, owing to the abundance of springs throughout the city. It is located at the foothills of Mount Dersa, which belongs to the Hauz mountain range, about 70 kilometres from Tangier and 40 from Ceuta.

Tétouan was of particular importance in the Islamic period, from the 8th century onwards, since it served as the main point of contact between Morocco and Andalusia. After the Reconquest, the town was rebuilt by Andalusian refugees who had been expelled by the Spanish. This is well illustrated by its art and architecture, which reveal clear Andalusian influence.

Although one of the smallest of the Moroccan medinas, Tétouan is unquestionably the most complete and it has been largely untouched by subsequent outside influences.

The Medina of Tétouan developed on the steep slopes of the Jebel Dersa. In the Islamic period it had particular importance from the 8th century onwards since it served as the point of connection between Morocco and Andalusia.

The Medina of Tétouan is surrounded by a historic wall of approximately 5 km in length and accessed by means of seven gates. The urban layout is characterised by main streets linking the gates to one another and giving access to open spaces, squares and smaller squares, and public buildings such as funduqs, mosques, zawayas and to the artisan and commercial districts, and on the other hand to smaller lanes leading to passages and semi-private residential areas.

A true synthesis of Moroccan and Andalusian cultures, the historic town of Tétouan presents urban and architectural features that have influenced the architectural and artistic development during the period of the Spanish Protectorate.

More information: Visit Morocco

The town of Tétouan is famous for its school of arts and crafts (Dar Sanaa) and its National Institute of Fine Arts which testify to an ancestral tradition and an opening onto the world today.

Is a maze of streets, alleys, squares, corners, doors and windows full of life which attract tourists. Feeling part of it all is easy -just take a stroll through its streets, drink tea at one of its cafes or talk to the locals. Let yourself be taken in by the medina and get lost in it.

There are three areas within the medina: Andalusian, Jewish and Berber.

It is almost completely surrounded by walls and its highest spot is dominated by its alcazaba, which once served as the Spanish barracks.

The heart of the Medina is Souk el Houts, dominated by the alcazaba of al-Mandari, and an interesting place where many women sell typical aprons from the city.

Another place you should visit is the Feddan Square, a beautiful square where you'll find the Royal Palace. Next to the palace are the zaouias of Sidi Abdellah el Hach and Sidi Ali Ben Aisa. This square has cafes, shops and provides access to the Jewish quarter.

The Jewish quarter is well worth a visit for its splendid houses and the ancient Queen Victoria Theatre.

A bazaar or souk, is a permanently enclosed marketplace or street where goods and services are exchanged or sold.

The term bazaar originates from the Persian word bāzār. The term bazaar is sometimes also used to refer to the network of merchants, bankers and craftsmen who work in that area. Although the word bazaar is of Persian origin, its use has spread and now has been accepted into the vernacular in countries around the world.

The term souk is used in Western Asian, North African and some Horn African cities.

More information: O Hay Away

Morocco is such a beautiful place.
It's incredibly beautiful.
And also it is captivating place because for a writer,
you feel that you make impact.
I mean, when I write something in the press,
the day after in the fish market,
people will be discussing it.

Fatema Mernissi

TITTAWIN & BERBERS, ORIGINS OF MEDINA OF TÉTOUAN

Today, The Stones have arrived to Tétouan in Morocco. it has been a long flight from Tierra del Fuego and the family is a little exhausted. For this reason, they have decided to stay at their hotel where Saida Stone has been explaining to the rest of the family some interesting things about Tétouan and its origins.

Tétouan, nicknamed the White Dove, is a city located in northern Morocco. 

It lies along the Martil Valley and is one of the two major ports of Morocco on the Mediterranean Sea, a few miles south of the Strait of Gibraltar, and about 60 km of Tangier.

In the 2014 Moroccan census, the city recorded a population of 380,787 inhabitants. It is part of the administrative division Tanger-Tetouan-Al Hoceima.

The city has witnessed many development cycles spanning over more than 2,000 years. The first settlements, discovered a few miles outside of the modern city limits, belonged to Mauretanian Berbers and date back to the 3rd century BC. A century later, Phoenicians traded there and after them the site -known now as the ancient town of Tamuda- became a Roman colony under Emperor Augustus.

In the late 13th century, the Berber Marinids started by building a casbah and mosque in what is now the old city. Soon after in 1305, the scale of the settlement was expanded by sultan Abu Thabit Amir, who fortified the place. Around the early 15th century, the Castilians destroyed the settlement in retaliation for piracy.

The modern history of the city starts around the late 15th century. It was re-built and fortified by Ali al-Mandri, who emigrated from the Nasrid city of Granada in the decade before it fell in the hands of the Catholic Monarchs Ferdinand II of Aragon and Isabella I of Castile as the War of Granada was completed in 1492.

Thousands of Muslims and Jews from Andalusia settled in the north of Morocco and on the ruins of the city of Tétouan.

The city went through a prosperous period of reconstruction and growth in various fields and became a center for the reception of Andalusian civilization.

It is often linked to Granada and is labelled Granada's daughter; some families still keep keys belonging to their old homes in Granada. It is also nicknamed Little Jerusalem by Sephardi Jews.

The vast majority of the population are Muslims and small Christian and Jewish communities also exist, although their presence has declined sharply in recent decades.

More information: Go Tétouan

In 1913, Tétouan became the capital of the Spanish protectorate of Morocco, which was governed by the Jalifa, Moroccan prince serving as Viceroy for the Sultan, and the Spanish Alto Comisario accredited to him. It remained the capital until 1956, when Morocco regained its full independence.

Tétouan is a renowned multicultural center. The medina of Tétouan is a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1997. It has also been part of the UNESCO Creative Cities Network in the area of Crafts and Folk Art since 2017.

The Berber name means literally the eyes and figuratively the water springs. Before its foundation in the late 13th century, small fortifications existed here with the name Tittawin. The current name is first mentioned in 9th-century Arabic chronicles, after the death of Idris II. The official name of the Marinid city was Afrag, royal tent in Berber. Unofficial documents kept referring to it as Tétouan.

According to Leo Africanus, the name comes after the Goths bestowed the government of the town upon a woman with one eye and that the inhabitants called it Tetteguin, meaning eye in their language.

The city is situated about 60 km east of the city of Tangier and 40 km south of the Strait of Gibraltar. To the south and west of the city, there are mountains. Tétouan is situated in the middle of a belt of orchards that grow oranges, almonds, pomegranates, and cypress trees. The Rif Mountains are nearby, as the city is located in the Martil Valley.

It is picturesquely situated on the northern slope of a fertile valley down which flows the Martil river, with the harbour of Tétouan, Martil, at its mouth. Behind rise rugged masses of rock, the southern wall of the Anjera country, once practically closed to Europeans; across the valley are the hills which form the northern limit of the still more impenetrable Rif.

More information: Visit Morocco

I was born in Morocco and lived there until I was 13;
I'm really proud of my heritage.
 

French Montana