Tuesday 27 August 2019

COVES & COASTAL PATHS OF L'EMPORDANET, GIRONA (I)

Claire, Joseph, Jordi & The Grandma start the route
Today, Claire Fontaine has joined Joseph de Ca'th Lon, Jordi Santanyí and The Grandma.

Claire is a great designer and an excellent photographer and she wants to walk along the coast with her friends to take some photos and to discover local stories and traditions. The four friends start today a wonderful trip along the coast and they are going to explain their route day by day.

Before starting the route, The Grandma has studied a new lesson of her Ms. Excel course.

FROM GOLFET TO SANT ROC (CALELLA)

Departure Point: Els Canyers / Sant Roc Beach.

Arrival point: El Golfet Beach.

Distance: 1,407 m.

Duration: 40 minutes.

Type of path: coastal path with significant changes of level with flights of stairs and tunnels.

Description of the route: a particularly wild path that goes along the coast to the centre of Calella.

Points of interest: Les Aigües Mortes, El Castellet d'en Niell, La Punta dels Forcats, La Roca Vermella (the red rock), Cala de la Font d'en Roques, Cala de la Font d'en Fina, L'Agulla del Golfet, El Cap Roig, El Cap Roig Botanical Garden.

Recommendations: follow the red and white GR-92 markers, do not take this route if there is an easterly storm, use comfortable footwear and take water.

Description

The section from El Golfet to Sant Roc, which is particularly wild, can be started next to Hotel Sant Roc where there are some stairs that lead to the coastal path. 

Joseph visits El Golfet, Calella de Palafrugell
The walk allows you to enjoy a spectacular view of Calella seafront, to walk along the coast with significant changes of level, with stairs and tunnels, to get a close-up view of the Formigues Islets -where a naval battle was fought in 1285 which destroyed the fleet of Philip III of France, the Bold- to get to know Mediterranean plant life, and to listen to the birds singing... You will also come across a series of strange rocks such as El Castellet d'en Niell, La Punta dels Forcats and L'Agulla del Golfet, finally coming to El Golfet Beach (if you leave behind the red and white GR-92 markers which continue along a long flight of the stairs to your right, and you carry straight on).

To enjoy an aerial view of El Golfet Beach, follow the GR-92 markers until you come to the Plaça Dorothy Webster.

This section gives you an idea of the genuine Costa Brava.

Once you come to El Golfet Beach, continue along the GR-92 toward Cap Roig, where you come to the Botanical Garden, where you can admire the entire Mediterranean flora and continue towards Palamós or come off the path and turn into the Sant Roc district.

More information: Visit Palafrugell

FROM SANT ROC TO TRES PINS (CALELLA)

Departure Point: Els Canyers or Sant Roc Beach.

Arrival point: Els Tres Pins (Punta de la Torre).

Distance: 1,350 m.

Duration: approximately 35 minutes.

Type of path: coastal path with some flights of steps and the streets of Calella.

Description of the route: a path that goes along the coast passing the most emblemating points of Calella.

Points of interest: Hotel Sant Roc viewpoint, Les Voltes, Sa Perola (tourist information office and interpretation centre), Mirador M. Juanola (la Casa Rosa), all the coves along which the route runs. * Off the route: Calella Church.

Recommendations: follow the path by the sea, do not take this route if there is an easterly storm, use comfortable footwear and take water.

Description

From Els Canyers Beach, carry along the seafront towards Els Banys d'en Caixa and El Port Pelegrí. Then walk on to La Punta dels Burricaires, where there is a magnificent viewpoint, and La Platgeta.

The Grandma visits Els Tres Pins, Calella de Palafrugell
Continue along this more urban part of Calella following the path along the sea that is part of the GR-92 and you get to d'en Calau Port.

There is one cove after another and you get to El Port Bo, which is well known for its vaults and the recital of havaneres or sea shanties of Calella, on the first Saturday of july. Just behind this, there is Sa Perola, old fishermen's premises, preserved with its original appearance and currently the tourist information office and interpretation centre.

You then come to Es Còdol, some rocks which separate the beach of El Port Bo and the Malaespina Port, and which have become a symbol of Calella.

You will come to a jetty under Can Jaume Gil and continue towards the Primitiu Guri viewpoint. Continue along the coast, crossing the terrace of Casa Rosa (Can Genís) which is a right way, until you are right in El Canadell Beach.

In this bathing area, very well known for its basement fishing under the houses, there is El Canadell promenade. Under Can Jubert and El Canyissos (or under Can Comes) there are small areas highly appreciated by bathers in the winter, which take you by means of a flight of steps to Els Tres Pins, where you come to Hotel la Torre, with the Calella lookout tower, built in 1597 to control the pirate attacks of that period and from where you carry along the coastal path towards Llafranc.


The Formigues Islands, in Catalan Illes Formigues, is an archipelago consisting of 16 small islands located 4.8 km from the port of Palamós, Girona, Catalonia. They lie facing the beach of Calella and Cap Roig. A lighthouse is located on the island of Formiga Gran (41º53'N 03º11'E). The islands are sometimes covered by waves when the sea is rough. The name of the islands is derived from the Catalan word for ant, referring to their size.

Administratively, they are divided between the municipalities of Palamós and Palafrugell.

The depths around the Formigues vary from 9 metres deep to more than 45 metres deep. The islands consist mostly of calcareous rock, with various caves and crags filled with rich marine vegetation, especially multicolored sea fans.

The Battle of Les Formigues took place in the islands in 1285.

Les Illes Formigues, Baix Empordà
The naval Battle of Les Formigues took place probably in the early morning of 4 September 1285 near Les Formigues Islands, Catalonia, about 85 km northeast of Barcelona, when a Catalan-Sicilian galley fleet commanded by Roger de Llúria defeated a French and Genoese galley fleet commanded by Guilhem de Lodeva, Henry di Mari, and John de Orrea.

There are three almost completely different accounts of this battle: from Ramon Muntaner, Bernard Desclot, and the Gesta comitum Barchinonensium. The Gesta places the battle at Les Formigues, while Muntaner favoured a location off Roses to the north. Either Llúria or the French were ashore for the night and encountered by the other, or they were both at sea when the encounter took place.

The accounts agree that it happened at night, which was unusual for medieval naval battles, but suited Llúria who was skilled at night-fighting. He used two lanterns on each galley to increase his apparent numbers. Ten to sixteen Genoese galleys under John de Orreo fled, leaving about fifteen to twenty French galleys to be captured, and some others sunk or burnt.

The troubadour Joan Esteve blamed treachery for the capture of the French admiral Guilhem. It is said that three hundred French prisoners were sent back to France. All of the prisoners but one had their eyes gouged out, and that one was left with one eye to guide the others. The prisoners brought one message from Roger de Llúria to the King of France: that not even fish would be able to navigate safely through Mediterranean Sea without a shield or sign of the king of Aragon on them.

More information: Visita Costa Brava


After a day’s walk, everything has twice its usual value.

G.M. Trevelyan

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